Recipe Reminder: Pear Tarte Tatin

Our neighbors have a place in New Hampshire, an old farm house with some land. On that land are fruit trees. Occasionally, some of the fruit makes it back to Somerville and to our table. This autumn, pears (of two types) were in the offing.

I've probably made a tarte tatin, the famous caramelized fruit-in-a-pan dish, one or two times before, but never with pear. My friend Steven has made many lovely tarte tatin and when I saw the pears start to soften I knew that I had to try to make a pear tarte tatin.

The recipe takes about 45 minutes of prep+stovetop cooking, then another 25-30 minutes in the oven. I used Simply Recipes version as the base and then modified to my preference.

The feedback was extremely positive. At first bite, my husband told me that this is a "make again" recipe, which is high praise indeed.

Active Time: 15 minutes / Serves: 4(?)

  • 2 lbs pears (around 5 pears)
  • One Lemon Cheek
  • 2 T sugar, plus 2/3 C sugar
  • 4 T butter
  • 2 tsp Grains of Paradise
  • One Puff Pastry Sheet

Method:

Prepare the Pears: Peel the best looking pear and then cut lengthwise. Remove stem and seeds and place the half in a medium bowl, then squeeze lemon juice over it. For the remaining half (and all the rest of the pears), cut into quarters. As you peel, stem, seed, and quarter the pears, put them into the bowl and squeeze lemon juice over the quarters to reduce browning. Sprinkle 2 T of sugar over the pears and toss gently to coat.

Prepare the Pan: Melt butter in 9" cast iron pan on medium heat. As the butter melts (I used salted), ensure it coats the pan evenly. Once the butter is melted, sprinkle the 2/3 C of sugar over the bottom of the pan evenly. Turn off the heat.

Prep the Oven: Turn oven to 375F. 

Cook the Pears and Make the Caramel: Arrange the half pear in the center of the pan, cut side up, then surround it with the pear quarters like a fan around the center pear. Minimize gaps! Bring the pan to medium heat and cook, not touching anything, for 20 to 30 minutes until the sugar and butter have developed a beautiful caramel color. This can take quite a while, and as the color developed I reduced the heat to avoid scorching. 

While the Pears Are Cooking: Dust a work surface with minimum flour and unroll the puff pastry sheet onto it. If your skillet is bigger than 9", you may need to roll out the puff pastry sheet to fit a larger pan. Trim the puff pastry to fit the pan, akin to how you'd approach a two crust apple pie. Once the pastry is ready, put 2 tsp Grains of Paradise into a mortar and grind it up a bit, but not too fine. If you have a bare dusting of (or a small grain of) green Sichuan peppercorn, include that with the Grains of Paradise. (Why Grains of Paradise? Alton Brown used these in his apple pie recipe in Good Eats and Ted Chernesky has used them since then.)

Top the Pears: Place the skillet on a sheet pan. Evenly distribute the ground Grains of Paradise over the pears. Top the pears with the trimmed puff pastry and use a fork to tuck the edges deeply into the pan.

Bake the Dish: Place the sheet pan into the oven and turn the oven down to 350F. Bake for 20-25 minutes and check on the pan of deliciousness — it should be bubbling and the puff pastry should be browning. Give more time as needed for the puff pastry to brown well and for the bubbling to thicken.

The Drama: Remove the pan from the oven. Place an inverted serving dish or a pyrex or ceramic pie dish over the pan. Carefully, and with thick gloves, invert the whole assemblage. Here, you may have some of the caramel leak out, but if you're quick and careful it'll be minimal. This step needs to be done while the pan and tarte tatin is still hot, otherwise you'll face a sticky sugar situation as the caramel starts to set.

Serving: Allow the dish to cook to warm or room temperature. You can keep this on the counter well covered for two days or in the fridge for 4 to 5 days.

Recipe Reminder: Cod Grenobloise

This was a complete winner. I've shied away from lemony dishes recently, but this French classic dish delivered an incredibly balanced, tart, and exciting flavor profile.

I am not sure how this video ended up in my "to watch", but it did and I pretty much followed Adam Byatt's approach. The dish comes together quite quickly after the mise en place is set.

Before starting, pull out the cod and pat it dry. Coat it liberally with a 60/40 blend of table salt and sugar (25 g table salt, 15 g sugar) and allow to cure for 12 minutes. Rinse, pat dry, and rest (for best results uncovered overnight).

Active time: 25 minutes Serves: 2

  • 250 g – Fresh Cod fillet

  • 100 g salted butter (good quality)

  • 1 lemon – segmented with the juice reserved

  • 20 g capers

  • 20 g cornichons, diced

  • 2 slices of sourdough, small dice

  • 20 g flat-leaf parsley, finely minced

  • 20 ml white wine

  • 100 ml fish stock (or suitable replacement)

Melt half of the butter in a sauté pan and toast/sauté the diced sourdough over medium heat until golden and crisp. Drain well.

Once removed, heat up some good quality olive oil on medium-high. Pat the cod dry and place flesh-side down and do not move for 6-8 minutes. Allow the flesh to take on a good color and crust and it will release when ready. Remove and flip so skin-side is down in an ovenproof dish (I used a small sheet pan with a layer of parchment). Add fish stock and put additional chunks of butter on the fish. Braise at 320-350F for 6-8 minutes, remove and rest.

In the same pan, cook the remaining butter to a beautiful brown. The way to tell this is that the butter will foam, and as you swirl it around to keep it from burning, the foam will part. As soon as the foam parts, immediately squeeze/add the lemon juice — there will be spattering — and then the white wine. Shake vigorously to emulsify. Rapidly stir in the diced cornichons, capers, lemon segments, croutons, and parsley. Warm up slightly if needed!

Serve fish (skin removed) over warmed up cauliflower purée on the plate, then spoon the sauce over the fish. Finish with a tad bit of good quality olive oil. It's tremendous. The piquant character of the sauce elevates the fish from "okay" to transportive. We had leftover sauce and as the night went on we ate spoonfuls of it alone.

Recipe Reminder: Twice Fried Chicken

This isn't truly a recipe, but more of a self-reminder of how well Air Fryer Ssamjang Twice-Fried Korean Chicken turned out tonight. The key part of the recipe was the sauce, noted below and modified.

Active time: 25 minutes per batch (2-3 batches) Serves: 4

  • 8 Tbsp. ssamjang (2 Tbsp. gochujang + 2 Tbsp. of ketchup or bean paste)

  • 4 Tbsp. honey

  • 4 Tbsp. brown sugar

  • 2 Tbsp. soy sauce

  • 1.5 Tbsp. sesame oil

  • .5 Tbsp. Green Sichuan Peppercorn oil

  • 2 Tbsp, fresh ginger, grated

  • 4 tsp. Fresh garlic, minced

Combine all together, blend until smooth if you want to waste a clean blade. I halved the recipe for Jeremy and I.

For the chicken:
Mix salt, pepper, and 6 Tbsp. of cornstarch or potato starch in a sealable container.

Pat dry chicken thighs, then toss with a small amount of oil.

Put the oiled chicken thighs (skin on is better) into the container with the cornstarch mixture. Shake until well coated.

Preheat air fryer to 375℉. Shake off excess starch and place chicken into the air fryer basket. Air fry for 15 minutes. Flip, air fry for another 7 minutes at 400℉. If you need more time, give a little spray of oil to the chicken and then go another 7 minutes.

Remove, dip into half of the above sauce, then serve with a side of rice.